By WOOD Magazine  
    To make this shop helper, cut the cleat support and turn button from solid stock and the shelf, bracket, and back from 3/4" plywood. Drill the countersunk screw mounting holes and a hole in the shelf to fit your light bottom. Screw (but don’t glue) the support together. The bottom edge of the back needs to be flush with the bottom edge of the wall-hung cleat when in place. Adjust if necessary. Glue and screw the support together, and then position the assembled light support where you need it. Add the light, and swivel the turn button, as shown on the inset photo, to secure the support to the wall cleat.

การทำโคมไฟเล็ก ๆ และปรับหมุนได้หลายมุม ทั้งสามารถยืด สั้น-ยาวตามความต้องการ ควรมีไว้ที่ห้องทำงาน แต่บริเวณผนังของห้องทำงานของช่างบางราย อาจจะไม่เหมาะในการติดตั้ง จึงจำเป็นต้องทำฐานรองไม้ขึ้นเพื่อช่วยผยุงตัวโคมไฟ และสามารถเคลื่อยย้ายไปได้ทุกที่ตามต้องการ

Keyhole Bit Unlocks the Secret to No-slip Bookends

I’ve built many a bookshelf over the years and have always been frustrated by free-standing bookends, which tend to slip or tip. So, while crafting a bookshelf for my great-grand-daughter, I hit upon the idea of fully adjustable built-in bookends.

In the top shelf, I used a keyhole bit in my plunge router to make a stopped slot, where shown in the drawing. I plunged the bit 1/2" deep into the center of the shelf, and then routed to with a few inches each end. That created a keyhole slot with a single entry hole that will be hidden by books.

After make the bookends, I drove a #10 x 1-1/2" flathead wood screw into the bottom of each, leaving the head about 1/4" proud. Simply adjust the screw-head protrusion to make it slide easier or with more friction in the routed slot. To install the bookends, insert the head of the screw into one of the keyhole bit entry point and slide it where you want it. The pressure from a book or two leaning against the bookends prevents the bookends for sliding away.

– Gerald "Jum" Coorough, Prairie du Chien, Wis.